A discreet application of wood suffuses the restrained and beautifully layered nose of mineral reduction, iodine, tidal pool, white orchard fruit and a vague hint of phenolic character. The super-sleek, dense and intense broad-shouldered flavors possess a palate etching mouthfeel while delivering simply remarkable length on the stony, austere and very dry finale. At the moment this has slightly better complexity compared to the Preuses though that may well change with a decade plus of aging. In sum, this is superb.

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