The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is especially good this year, and Lamy tells me that he has started rolling the canopies in this parcel instead of hedging them. Offering up aromas of fresh peach, citrus oil and pear, as well as delicate top notes of white flowers, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered, enveloping profile and a long mineral finish. This might well be the best Chaumées that Lamy has produced to date.

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