The 2004 Mugneret-Gibourg is à point and showing beautifully in this challenging vintage, with none of the year's telltale herbaceousness now in evidence. An expressive bouquet of black cherry, red plum, rich soil, gamebirds and dark spice is followed by a sappy, three-dimensional and expansive wine. This will never be the largest-scaled or long-lived Clos Vougeot from the sisters, but it is very long indeed on charm and complexity.

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