I must confess that I was expecting to enjoy the 1998 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts more than I did. It has a fungal, potent undergrowth-scented bouquet with darker fruit than the 1996. It is medium-bodied and quite glossy with noticeable creamy new oak that is not quite as resolved with the fruit as I would have liked at this stage, with plenty of bottle age. It is also a little animally on the finish.

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