Smoky black tea, rose petals, dark berries, and licorice waft seductively (and site-typically) from the glass of Clair 2006 Chambertin Clos De Beze. Seamlessly-rich and refined in tannins, this offers a gorgeous layering of flavors anchored in clean meatiness and suggestions of stoniness and crystalline minerality that carry no sense of austerity. While missing the remarkable dynamic of the Clos St.-Jacques, in its own way this supremely elegant, intriguingly-nuanced, and memorably persistent Pinot is a model for the vintage and of its great site's potential year in, year out. Plan to give it 3-4 years of rest before savoring it for the 6-8 that follow. (DS)

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An explosive and impressively broad nose combines the classic spiciness of a fine Clos de Bèze with a myriad of other nuances, including game, smoke, damp earth, red and blue berry fruit and touches of underbrush and a trace of wood toast that is also picked up on the rich, full and notably serious flavors that are both sweet and intense on the powerfully long finish that displays real size and weight. This is a big wine by the standards of the vintage and be prepared to let this beauty slumber for at least a decade, perhaps a bit more.

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