The 2009 Échézeaux Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of wild berries and plums mingled with peonies, exotic spices and hints of wood smoke. Full-bodied, deep and complete, with velvety tannins and an enveloping core of fruit, it's sumptuous but serious, with lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is a concentrated, youthfully muscular Échézeaux that is still a few years away from showing all its cards.

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