The disparity between my score in barrel last year and from bottle this year is an illustration of the vagaries of barrel tasting, as the 2021 La Tâche Grand Cru has benefited immeasurably from a second winter of élevage. If the Saint-Vivant is the cousin of the Romanée-Conti, La Tâche this year is the big brother of the Richebourg, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with Asian spices, rose petals and coniferous forest and framed by a discreet patina of new oak. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a broad, textural attack and an ample core of fruit that conceals a serious chassis of tannin, it's long, resonant and intensely perfumed.

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