Domaine Georges Roumier, among the most prestigious wineries in Burgundy, holds a special place in the hearts of wine lovers. Known for its exceptional quality and the iconic Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses, it is revered as the “First Apostle” among the world's top twelve wines in the Japanese manga “Drops of God”. The estate captivates wine lovers and novices alike.
The Domaine’s origins date back to 1924 when Georges Roumier married Genevieve Quanquin, receiving Chambolle Musigny vineyards including Les Fuees, Les Amoureuses, and part of Bonnes Mares as a dowry. In 1952, Georges expanded the estate by acquiring Domaine Belorgey’s share, adding more plots of Bonnes Mares and Clos de Vougeot. The following year, he purchased the Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussiere 1er Cru and retired, passing the winery to his son, Jean-Marie, who further expanded it by acquiring 0.2 ha of Corton Charlemagne in 1968 and a plot of Musigny in 1978.
The reputation and quality of the Domaine soared under the stewardship of Jean-Marie's son, Christophe who joined the estate in 1982 and took charge of all technical matters. Adapting vineyard practices to each growing season, Christophe practices organic farming, minimizes treatments, and avoids chemical fertilizers, leading to healthier vines and a move towards biodynamic viticulture. Old vines are preserved, with parcels only replaced after 50 years to maintain flavor quality. Harvests are later than many other Domaines, allowing old vines to achieve superior concentration.
In winemaking, Christophe varies destemming by appellation. For example, in 2008, village wines were 100% destemmed, 1er Cru 70%, and Grand Cru 50%, except for Musigny Grand Cru, which was not destemmed. Fermentation is long and gentle, using stainless steel and cement vats. Post-fermentation, he prefers minimal new wood usage. Since 1993, he has also avoided fining and filtration.
Christophe sees himself as a medium for the terroir, nature, grape, and the wine. His philosophy is clear: “We don’t make Pinot Noir, we make wines from terroir which expresses itself through Pinot Noir.” The Domaine currently produces over ten wines, including six Grand Crus: Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Charmes Chambertin, Ruchottes Chambertin, Echezeaux, and a white Corton Charlemagne. The four Premier Crus include Les Amoureuses, Les Cras, Les Combottes in Chambolle Musigny, and Clos de La Bussiere in Morey St Denis.
These wines reflect Christophe’s philosophy perfectly. The Bourgogne and Chambolle Musigny have a gentle texture, with fresh, youthful berry aromas and a long finish. The 1er Cru Clos de La Bussiere, with its iron-rich clay soil, offers a tight, firm structure and rich palate. The 1er Cru Les Cras, with its marl-rich soil, highlights a mineral quality and refreshing character. The 1er Cru Les Combottes, with soil composed of limestone rocks and pebbles, provides excellent drainage, producing smaller, more concentrated fruit. Les Amoureuses, a next level 1er Cru, with its chalk-rich soil, combines elegance, power, and complexity, offering fragrant violet aromas and a luxurious quality rivaling Grand Cru.
Roumier's Grand Crus require patience to reach maturity and a lengthy decanting time to reveal their nuances. Ruchottes Chambertin is a rare, yet often overlooked classic. This Grand Cru vineyard is situated at a relatively high altitude, with rocky soil and a shallow layer rich in limestone. Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, labeled as Aux Mazoyeres by Roumier, comes from a vineyard with a thin layer of clay and limestone. This results in a fresh, light wine with intense fruit aromas and an elegant texture, suitable for early drinking.
Bonnes Mares is a blend from several plots, each contributing unique characteristics. The northern plots near Morey St Denis have deep, fertile soil, giving the wine a richer, more robust style, while the southern plots in Chambolle Musigny, with a higher proportion of limestone, produce wines that are lighter and smoother.
Roumier’s flagship wine is the Musigny. This vineyard’s steep terrain, rich in chalk and limestone, provides excellent drainage, fostering deep, strong root systems. The resulting wine is layered with complex aromas of violet, lavender, and rose petals, along with flavors of cherry, red currant, spices, warm earth, and forest floor. The palate is full, tight, pure, and harmoniously balanced, regarded as one of the greatest expressions of this Grand Cru, second only to Leroy.
Since 2016, Roumier has been producing Echezeaux through a sharecropping agreement. The first vintage released to the market was 2017. This tiny 0.13 ha plot in En Orveaux near Musigny, was planted in 1944. The wine features deep aromas of violet, clove, sandalwood, and fennel, with a smooth, velvety texture. Production is extremely limited, with only about two barrels made each year.