Another structured, serious wine is the 2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, one of the ripest in the cellar—as I observed last year. Opening in the glass with notes of cherries, plums raw cocoa, peonies and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a voluminous core of ripe but lively fruit, powdery and abundant tannins and a youthfully chalky finish.

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