The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is superb, opening in the glass with a beautiful bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, tarte tatin, toasted nuts, orange zest and honey, framed by a deft touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is broad, deep and very powerful, with almost chewy structure and a long, penetrating finish. This is more blocky and foursquare than the Bienvenues, with perceptibly racier acidity, and it will require more time in the cellar.

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