While many white Burgundies from this vintage are developing in a more exotic direction than many commentators anticipated, the 2010 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières from Coche-Dury remains chiseled and tightly wound, offering up notions of lemon oil, freshly baked bread, sesame and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, incisive and electric, it's a brilliant wine that's far from its prime.

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