The 1998 Maiden is prodigious. I know it is tempting to pooh-pooh second wines, but this is no afterthought from owner Bill Harlan and the winemaking team of American Bob Levy and Frenchman Michel Rolland. The 1998 Maiden (770 cases) possesses a dense purple color and a knockout nose of cocoa, prunes, blackberries, plums, and cassis. Spicy, with moderate tannin, and a viscosity and richness akin to beef blood, it is a gorgeous, concentrated, thick effort.

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