At its best the fully mature nose is elegant, detailed and nicely pure yet unfortunately the aromas too often display notes of oxidation. There is good muscle and punch to the slightly earthy and racy medium weight flavors that possess evident minerality with just enough richness and sap to buffer the prominent finishing acidity. Unlike the better ‘93 whites, this is austere and a bit tough though certainly not without a certain appeal. Note that I have had this on multiple occasions but the number of bottles with pronounced oxidation renders this wine a risky bet.

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