This remains moderately reserved yet even so there is wonderful complexity to the airy and layered nose that is distinctly floral while offering up a variety of spice notes, including anise, clove and soy nuances. There is terrific intensity to the pure and sleekly muscled flavors that possess real drive, indeed this does a slow but sure build from the mid-palate on through to the explosively long finish. This is a fascinating wine in that the natural robustness of a fine GE is present but the natural elegance of the vintage tames it somewhat and one could quite accurately describe the '06 GE as robustly elegant yet distinctly understated. Despite the elegance, this will need plenty of cellar time though curiously, there isn't the usual austerity, indeed while I wouldn't recommend it, this is one of the few vintages less than 20 years of age that a magnum could be enjoyed now even if there is still plenty of remaining upside potential.

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The Domaine's 2006 Grands-Echezeaux is altogether less charming and flattering than its ostensibly lesser sibling, leading as it does with fresh red meat and pronouncedly saline, marine mineral notes even in the nose. In the mouth, this is relatively spare but formidably-concentrated and finely-tannic, with cedar, tartly-edged though ripe black fruits, and alkaline mineral notes that carry into a striking, bloodily carnal and almost briny finish. Here is Pinot Noir in its role as a mirror for human flesh and bone. What I see sends shivers down my spine and excites my imagination, but the wine seems to have no intention of flattering me. I didn't encounter another Pinot at all like this in the vintage, and it should be fascinating to follow for a dozen or more years, but unlike the Echezeaux, I would not plan to open any bottles for at least another 3-4.

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