The 2013 Vosne-Romanée les Genevrieres has a broody, introspective, sea spray-tinged bouquet that opens beautifully in the glass, but there is something saturnine here, aromatics indifferent to getting to know you. The palate is medium-bodied with a "confit" entry, gently grippy tannin structure and an effortless mineral-rich finish, if not quite the length of a top vintage.

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