The 2002 Chablis Grand Cru Clos is showing brilliantly and numbers among the high points of this tasting. Unfurling in the glass with a bouquet of ripe lemons, oyster shell, dried white flowers, beeswax and pastry cream, it's full-bodied, envelopingly satiny and layered, with superb depth at the core, succulent acids and a long, saline finish, distinguished above all by an ineffable sense of completeness. This is a spectacular Clos that has just arrived at early maturity.

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An intensely floral nose is still fresh if no longer youthful with solid amounts of Chablis character that includes iodine, citrus and sea breeze along with the initial hints of secondary development. There is fine richness to the mouth coating and intensely mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that retain a really lovely sense of underlying tension, all wrapped in a delicious and moderately dry finale. For my taste this has arrived at its peak though I underscore that it should have no difficulty holding at this plateau for up to another decade. In a word, lovely. Multiple, and consistent, notes including several within the last two years.

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