Seven thousand six hundred and thirty eight bottles! Colour: gold. Nose: this is different. There’s some toasted oak, there is some coffee, there’s some charcoal, and there’s a very distant and almost elusive Caol-Ila-ness, which comes unexpected from the owners. What I also get, mostly, is a wonderful artisan cider, like they make in the best parts of Normandy. And old cigars (advance warning, that’s always a good sign). With water: it’s smoked cider of the highest order. I find it intriguing that Diageo’s First Nose(s) would have come up with such a profile. Mouth (neat): sweet Vishnu! This is implacable, sharp, acrid, oaky in a good way, mercurochromy spirit from Islay. Much bigger, powerful, and almost aggressive than expected. I even find it a little dangerous. With water: oh lovely. Smoother, gentler, civilised. Smoke and rosehips, I’d say. Finish: long, and earthy, and great. It strikes back. Comments: more a fight than a tasting. This aggressive old baby stands up to the taster. I’m bowing to the ground (of course not, they can…)

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