99
score
Robert Parker
August 31, 1998
It would take a writer of Shakespeare's eloquence to do justice to this wine. It has a deep ruby/purple color and spiritual aromas of raspberry and cherry jam, violets, perfume, and Asian spices. Its aromatic purity, definition, and depth were so captivating that I feared the palate could not match up. Wrong! An explosion of satin-laced fruit greeted my tongue. Layer upon layer of perfectly ripened, sweet and jammy cherries, candied violets, roses, and blueberries provided a levitating experience. For minutes I could neither see nor feel my surroundings - nor did I care to - as this wine took my senses hostage. It is velvety, supple, powerful, stylish, refined, concentrated, and possesses the backbone (as silky as can be imagined!) to allow this heavenly offering to evolve magnificently. Its awesomely long finish has loads of fruit-drowned, soft, and round tannins. As I looked across the room (he had gone off to stand with some friends), my eyes met Claude Dugat's - he smiled.
What remains to be said about this wine crafted by the shy, self-effacing, and ever-smiling Claude Dugat? Well, it might be getting even better.
While still having the opulence of fruit and suppleness that have made his wines renowned throughout the world, this wine appears to have more structure. My instincts have, in the past, been that Dugat's wines were best drunk young, but this wine displays the necessary balance between fruit, acidity, and backbone for extended cellaring.
Perhaps Jean-Marc Joblot, the extremely talented Givry producer, said it best: "Claude Dugat's 1996s are the most beautiful expression of Pinot Noir I've ever had." A taster would have to be dead not to fall in love with these wines.
