Leflaive’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres represents a major step up in concentration over the wines that proceeded it in this year’s line-up. Ripe, faintly caramelized peach, quince preserves, citrus zest, and brown spices dominate the nose and succulent, creamily-textured palate. Musky notes of narcissus and heady lily-like perfume add allure and complexity, following all the way through the finish. At the same time, this is anything but heavy, evincing a sense of buoyancy that beautifully compliments the wafting floral character of its long finish. This refined Puligny sublimates any overt mineral character in the interest of seduction, of which it should remain fully capable for at least the next 6-8 years. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.

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