The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet, coquettish at first, then opening with wet limestone, Morello and cassis scents; it is very defined and focused though not powerful. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, beautifully poised with pure red cherries infused with orange sorbet and captivating mineralilé on the finish. This is one of the best Clos de la Roche that I have tasted from Rousseau in recent years. Apparently Charles Rousseau is 92-years-old now. He no longer occupies the cabin on the right-hand side by the gate and remains at his home just a stone's throw away from the domaine. Even though this legend is no longer there to greet visitors, give them the once over, his legacy continues with his wines. As usual, I was accompanied by the ever congenial Frédéric Robert. He accompanied me around the barrels and he was as candid as ever. He told me that they only had minor skirmishes with the drosophila suzukii, in particular at some of the row ends close to the forest. Interestingly, he told me that they could not find any rationale to where they located, for example not necessarily in warm humid spots. Anyway, he said that they were easy to sort out. The harvest took place from September 12 until September 21, starting with the Gevrey Villages and finishing with the Lavaux and Clos Saint-Jacques in cooler microclimates. He also allowed me to taste the "Clos du Château" from the vines owned by the Ng family that Rousseau are managing. Frédéric told me that no firm decision has been made whether to bottle it (they declined in 2013 and blended it with the Village Cru). However, it seems that 2014 may mark its debut and I can't see why not. It is light and uncomplicated, but contains that transparency and tension that gives it Rousseau's signature style. As for the rest of the 2014s, well, there are some absolute beauties. Perhaps to quibble, their Gevrey Cazetiers did not quite create sparks like other growers' that I tasted, however, I adored the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. Funny to think that in the 1990s it was regarded as the domaine's weakest link. I have a preference for the Chambertin over the Clos-de-Bèze. The difference is fairly marked this year, though if I was to spend my shillings on one, it would be the fabulous Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques that leaves you feeling elated. I think Charles Rousseau would be rightly proud of these latest additions.

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This is also moderately reduced and impossible to properly assess. Otherwise there is excellent volume to the equally muscular big-bodied flavors that are richer but don't quite have the same sense of underlying tension before terminating in a palate coating and quite firmly structured finish that delivers terrific length. This is a big but seamlessly well-balanced effort that should also amply repay extended cellaring.

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