The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is explosive and totally exciting. A big, broad- shouldered frame supports a core of black fruit, mint, flowers and licorice in this powerful, massively structured wine. Here, too, it is the wine’s energy and focus that truly stand out most. The finish turns weightless and totally sublime. As usual, I tasted the Bonnes-Mares from its two main components, and then in the blend, and it was the blend that was most convincing of the three wines. The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a wine built for a long rest in the cellar before it begins to approach the early part of what promises to be a long drinking window. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050. (AG)

An overtly cool and restrained yet, somewhat curiously, an even spicier nose reveals notes of violet, black berry and cassis along with earth and stone hints. The dense, powerful, concentrated and muscular flavors possess an almost pungent minerality that adds lift to the extremely firm but not hard finish that possesses explosive length. This is breathtakingly good and somewhat like the Bussières, it's even finer than usual. A great Roumier Bonnes Mares.

Good full, deep, bright red. Black and blue fruits complicated by menthol and brown spices on the nose. Chewy and powerfully structured but more monolithic in the early going than the Amoureuses, showing little in the way of easy sweetness. This tactile but compact wine seems to be in the process of shutting down in bottle. But it boasts the balance, sheer intensity and tannic spine for a long and glorious evolution in bottle.