Roumier's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, clearly surpassing its 2018 counterpart to my palate. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, peonies, plums, warm spices and orange rind, framed by a creamy patina of new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, concentrated core that's girdled by succulent acids and underpinned by ripe, powdery tannins. It's reminiscent of a more muscular version of Roumier's superb 2007.

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