The 1996 Barolo Monfortino, just bottled, is a brooding, backward behemoth, which reminds me of the 1978 in its youth. An usually dark garnet for a completely traditional Barolo, its fabulously fresh aromas, plummy and spicy and redolent of roses, violets, graphite, and road tar, give way to a super-concentrated palate, massive and packed, dense and intense in texture and continuity. It is explosive on the development and finish, both mouth-coating and chewy yet nobly austere and with the length and kick which characterize the greatest of Barolo. I would not touch a bottle until 2010, and imagine that it will still be an extraordinary wine in 2035.c

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