Whereas Selosse's vintage bottling was formerly derived exclusively from Avize, the 2007 Extra-Brut Millésime is the first that draws on all the estate's holdings, with the vins clairs chosen in a blind tasting. Wafting from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, toasted almonds, nougat, shortbread, warm spices, honeycomb and white flowers, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with incisive acids, chalky structure and a tensile profile. A bottle drunk in Burgundy several weeks after my visit to the domaine was just as striking.

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