Here is another life-affirming bottle of 1993 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques from Rousseau. This example showed a little more maturity in colour, but the nose is entrancing and develops beautiful raspberry preserve, pomegranate, cool stone and bay leaf scents that are quite intoxicating. The palate is fresh, crisp and brilliantly focused. It is still a feminine Clos Saint Jacques, the tannin so fine and now abraded by time. Yes, it has a nonchalant, easygoing personality that almost distracts you from its innate complexity. This remains a wonderful wine.

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Magnum: A ripe and wonderfully complex nose mixes mostly secondary aromas with hints of earth and leather soar from the glass. The gorgeously detailed, elegant and precise medium weight flavors are supported by still noticeable tannins that are completely buffered by abundant extract on the strikingly persistent finish. The acid/fruit balance is perfect and along with the '99, this is the finest Rousseau Clos St. Jacques of the decade. While this should continue to hold without difficulty, it appears that this has peaked even in magnum format though I underscore that this beauty will still be with us 25 years from now. In a word (ok, two), most impressive.

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