Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques 2011 has an earthy bouquet, the stems quite prominent, though it is still well defined and full of freshness and vitality. It opens beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, more linear than its peers, the acidity pitched higher, but that just lends tension and race on the finish. The aftertaste is long with plenty of spicy black fruit and blackcurrant pastilles. This is a very commendable, more masculine, structured Clos St. Jacques that has improved since I last tasted it a few months ago, putting a gap between itself and Rousseau's fellow premier cru. (NM)

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Discreet wood sets off ultra-fresh and airy aromas of herbal tea, red currant, blue berries and plum that are trimmed in hints of wet stone and earth. There is a wonderfully refined mouth feel to the mineral-tinged middle weight flavors that possess an appealing verve along with superb detail on the harmonious and persistent if ever-so-slightly lean finish. This pretty if still notably firm effort should continue to reward mid-term cellaring though it is not so backward as to prevent it from being enjoyed now.

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