The king of the cellar, Lignier's 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of red and black cherries, cassis, warm spices, incense and grilled game bird. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and complete with striking depth and dimension, rich but satiny structuring tannins and excellent structural tension at the core, concluding with a long and penetrating finish. It's a magical wine that will merit ardent pursuit when it's released next year.

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