A gorgeous white that didn’t start to shine until after two hours in the decanter, Manfred’s 2004 The Rejuvenators is a blend of 56% Roussanne, 24% Viognier and 20% Chardonnay, aged in 55% new French oak, that came mostly from John Alban’s site in the Edna Valley, but with 9% of the blend from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard. Light gold in color, with a rich, full-flavored and voluptuously-styled bouquet of white peach, white flowers, honeyed apricots and a tinge of marzipan, this incredible effort hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a thick, unctuous texture, and brilliant concentration, and no sense of weight or heaviness. Given the concentration level here, as well as the overall balance and freshness, it will continue to evolve for decades.

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