The 2018 Meursault Vireuils is showing nicely in bottle, unwinding in the glass with hints of crisp Anjou pear, citrus oil, nutmeg and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, with a pretty core of fruit underpinned by a racy spine of acidity, it concludes with a chalky, penetrating finish. This is a fine success that I suspect will show even better with a few years in bottle, even if it's deceptively charming right now.

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