Entering the realm of premier crus (and passing from one-third to 50% new wood), Lachaux’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Proces (from a tiny cru just southwest of town) offers ripe black cherry tinged with sweet spices and hints of barrel in the nose. On the palate, it reveals juicy refinement, creaminess, restrained vanillin, smoke and oak spice, brothy, stock-pot meatiness, and bitter-sweet black fruits. Notes of spinach, toasted nuts and nutmeg further inform a fundamentally bitter-sweet (and perhaps as yet not entirely knitted) finish.

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