The 2013 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a subtle, mineral nose with Granny Smith apple, cream puffs and flinty scents developing after a couple of minutes in the glass. The palate is rounded and harmonious on the entry with glimpses of white peach and nectarine. The acidity is finely tuned and lends the finish an effortless feel. This Bienvenue is more about the texture than flavors at the moment, with just a touch of viscosity lending it a modicum of richness. Does it rank alongside the immense 2012? Perhaps it falls just short...but not by much. (NM)

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This is aromatically both more elegant and more complex than the Combettes with its beautiful range of citrus, honeysuckle, pear and an appealing hint of tangerine peel. There is stunningly good purity of expression to the cool, restrained and understated medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also serves to buffer the suave yet detailed finale that delivers seriously impressive length. The words 'pure class' aptly describe this beautifully balanced and age-worthy effort.

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