An extract of spiced plum, warm earth, smoke, underbrush and a distinct animale note merges into exceptionally fresh and intense flavors that are taut, muscled and vibrant as this displays real drive on the detailed and punchy finish that simply does not quit, indeed this is the longest wine to this point. It's rare that even reference standard Clos de la Roche can stay with a world class Musigny but that is the case here. While there isn't much to choose from qualitatively between this and the Musigny, I have to say that I loved this wine as there is personality here whereas the Musigny is still a block of stone though this will of course change with time. If you can find them, and afford them, in either case don't hesitate.

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Deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of black cherry, meat, smoke, underbrush and minerals; conveys a strong impression of terroir Fat, sweet and stuffed with fruit and soil tones; hugely ripe without being overripe. A wine with extraordinary concentration and volume, not to mention a tactile sense of solidity. Perhaps most impressive today on the back end, which features thoroughly buffered tannins, great mounting, tactile flavor and wonderfully subtle aromatic persistence. 'But it's not better than the '99,' says Madame Bize.

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The parcel that informs a 2005 Clos de la Roche touches Leroy’s Combottes. This wine smells of resin, tobacco, incense, roasted meats, wood smoke, wet stones, alongside stewed cherries and rhubarb. Roasted and stewy richness characterize the intimate meld of meat and fruit on the palate as well. For sheer density this is incredibly impressive, but it’s not at all lacking in the kinetic department, either. What is lacking is the perfume or pure clarity of fruit that the best of this collection display. Almost frighteningly gripping in the back (or on the way down, should you dare to swallow!) with an implosive display of meatiness and stony minerality, this will surely need years to reveal its full potential.

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