The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is lovely, wafting from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of plums, dark chocolate, cassis, orange rind and espresso roast. Medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins and lively acids. This will demand patience, but it's very promising.

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