Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, I think I was as surprised as Hervé Berland when the 1985 Montrose performed above expectations. Picked between 25 September and 9 October, it is mature in color with some bricking on the rim. The palate is a little rustic with red berries intermingling with bacon fat, singed leather, bay leaf and a slither of dried orange peel. The palate is very well balanced, fleshy in keeping with the style of the vintage, not as complex or as structured as the 1986, but certainly superior to the 1982 Montrose, with an effortless, nonchalant finish that beckons you back for another sip. Just a delicious Saint Estèphe that is à point.

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