I have already tasted the 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru three or four times since it was bottled, and it is an immensely appealing young wine that exemplifies the stylistic evolution that Loïc Dugat-Py has subtly enacted at this estate since taking the helm a few years ago. Soaring from the glass with an expressive bouquet of cherries, licorice and sweet coniferous forest floor, it's full-bodied, ample and exquisitely velvety, with a deep and concentrated core, mouthwateringly succulent acids and a long, intense finish. More immediate and overtly charming than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques, anyone who wants to understand contemporary Dugat-Py could be forgiven for tasting a bottle young.