A wine of utter sensuality, the 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet red fruits, orange zest, rose petals, vine smoke and spices, followed by a full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's suave and seamless, its vibrant, enveloping core of fruit framed by melting tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. Like many 2017s, this seems unlikely ever to shut down and stands out as one of those rare vintages that can never be caught at the wrong moment. That being said, I'm sure a decade's bottle age will be rewarded with even more mid-palate volume.

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