The 2009 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is fabulous, soaring from the glass with a youthful bouquet of preserved citrus, vanilla pod, pastry cream, subtle white truffle and toasted sesame. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with a textural attack, deep core, excellent concentration and succulent acids. The length on the finish is extraordinary. While this is the highest in alcohol of the vintages in this tasting (2009-1999), it's better integrated than in the 2006 or 2003 vintages, both of which seem warmer—which Jean-François Coche suggests is because wine made from clean grapes hides its alcohol better than wine made from botrytized grapes. Raphaël Coche adds that 2009 was a year defined by "sun and juice," as vines set a large crop and ripened it in balmy conditions without suffering from any stress.

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