Tawny colour. Green fennel seed. Vivid Marmite nose and palate. Black olive, sage, thyme (although that was a component of the meal), and rich dark chocolate. Thick tannins. Not expecting to like this, I was totally beguiled by it. Showing its age, and certainly at it peak drinking window, this is rich, savoury and thick. Very Californian, with a huge personality. Roasted aromas and flavours . The wine makes its ripeness and alcohol work in its fabour. No VA detected - just a mellow, furry and rich mouthful of wine. Big, but not over the top. Excellent, and by far, the more involving and complete wine than the 2008 Phelps Insignia drunk last week. Just got better and better with air. Last bottle, best bottle, but this will always be a thickly tannic Cabernet, very much in the Californian cult style. Could never be mistaken for Bordeaux, but it convinces on its own qualities.

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