The 2014 Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru takes time to unfurl in the glass, eventually opening out with dark berry fruit, a touch of briary and blueberry, and a suggestion of sea spray. It is paradoxically intense but subtle. The palate is medium-bodied and here, it just shows the wood a little more than say, the Clos de la Roche. There is good density here, but it is the acidity that drives this forward and imparts so much tension. This is a Ruchottes that rivets you to the spot.

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