Spectacular nose, a big bouquet of white lilies with pleasant smoky and reductive butteriness. This is a little more cerebral than the ‘96 Leflaive Chevy in the next glass, which is absolutely booming, if less floral. A unique cola spice in here, probably related to oak vanilla. Dried coconut. Palate is fresh and huge and round with dense yellow fruit and good acid. Whereas the Leflaive is straightforwardly delicious, the d’Auvenay has such elegance and nuance to the flavours. 96-97.

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