The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux is still impressively youthful and tightly wound. Opening in the glass with notes of citrus zest, crisp green apple, white flowers, oyster shell and struck match, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity and chalky grip that asserts itself on the finish. In fact, this is still five or six years from its drinking window to my taste, but it will give the 2010, 2014 and 2017 a run for their money at maturity.

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