Colour: gold. Nose: oh, a wonderful chocolaty sherry at first nosing, with growing notes of shoe polish and coal, perhaps echoes of when Bruichladdich was peated. The freshness is there too, rather with apple peelings this time, and the old-skool side takes off after five minutes, with engine oils, wet concrete, carbolinium, and quite a lot of black earth. A little game and tobacco from the sherry as well, but the style remains pretty ‘fino’ despite the chocolate. Mouth: madre de dios! Some selection! I’m not saying it’s as ‘high’ as Samaroli’s famous Glen Garioch 1971 or Springbank 12, but we’re not very far. Exceptional notes of bitter oranges, more smoke than in the nose, the most precious peppers, and all things even remotely phenolic, although this baby wouldn’t disperse itself. Remains compact and focused, in an impeccable manner. Perfect strength and body. Finish: very long, with a greasiness and a mineral waxiness that hint at old Clynelish.

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