Demonstrative and charming, Selosse's 2010 Extra-Brut Millésime will be a great vintage to drink while patient readers are waiting on the 2010. Bursting from the glass with botrytis-inflected aromas of tangerine, crisp yellow orchard fruit, citrus blossom, clear honey and toasted nuts, it's full-bodied, satiny and pillowy, with an open, expressive profile that lends it real immediacy. Guillaume Selosse explains that to produce the Millésime, he doesn't select the "best" barrels from each of the lieux-dits, but rather those with a more pronounced personality. The 2010 likely won't be the most long-lived vintage of this bottling, but it will deliver enormous pleasure over the next decade.

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