Aromatically, the 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru echoes the neighboring Puligny Enseignères with its notes of ripe citrus zest, dried flowers and white peach, adding nuances of honeycomb and a subtle framing of smoky reduction. On the palate, however, the Bâtard is much more large-scaled and authoritative, with a glossily textural attack and immense depth at the core, while remaining stony—even saline—and remarkably weightless for a wine endowed with so much body and power. Though it's an elegant rendition of this terroir, it's unequivocally built for the long haul.