Lacking that extra dimension of freshness and purity of the '90, the 1989 Hermitage la Chapelle is still a fabulous wine that offers sensational aromatic fireworks to go with full-bodied richness and depth. Showing classic la Chapelle smoked meats, currants, wood smoke and chocolate, this beauty hits the palate with no hard edges, a blockbuster texture and a finish that just won't quit. It shows the slightly more masculine, austere edge of the vintage, but the tannin is beautifully sweet and it packs a serious amount of fruit in the mid-palate. I've had a few tired bottles of this over the past few years, so provenance is key. Nevertheless, well-stored bottles will continue to drink beautifully for another couple decades.

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