The 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru from Dominique Lafon was cheekily demonstrating a “Coche-Dury”-like reduction on the nose that I must admit was very seductive, although Dominique suggested that it will disappear by the time of bottling. The palate is well balanced, tightly wound at the moment, but there are some lovely walnut and spice notes toward the fiery finish and lip-smacking salinity that urges you to take another sip. Bon vin!

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Lafon noted that this had only recently finished its malos and not surprisingly it was quite strongly reduced. The reserved, intense, round and very powerful big-bodied flavors possess good if not massive concentration and muscle though I very much like the attractively textured, detailed and explosively persistent finish. Note well that this impeccably well-balanced effort is going to require at least 15 years of patience for it to reach its apogee.

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