never racked out of barrel and into holding tank to complete its élevage in the way all of the prior wines are handled and as such, it virtually always displays a bit more oak influence. True to form, notes of pain grillé and vanilla serve as a background for the very reserved, indeed reticent aromas of white flower, peach, apricot, mango and hints of spice that introduce brooding and powerful flavors supported by thick and concentrated dry extract that stains the palate on the finish that seems to go on and on without end. This is incredibly backward and by comparison, the Chevalier seems open for business whereas this is going to need a great deal of time to see its final majority so if you're one of the few fortunate to ever find a bottle, be prepared to let this slumber away for at least a dozen years first and fifteen is not out of the question.

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Whereas the ‘05 DRC Montrachet in the next glass hits you over the head with forward, opulent, ripe, golden fruit and reduction, this Leflaive is a cerebral and comparatively reserved glass. Not particularly illustrative of Montrachet as a vineyard as the overwhelming richness isn’t there. This is more mineral and chiseled. Incredible acid and freshness. Subtle smoke over white florals. I’ve been chasing a bottle of this, in any vintage, for a while and was really hoping that it would outperform the DRC, but this makes you work for it. Still incredible to try.

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The 2005 Montrachet Grand Cru has quite a deep color for a ten-year-old Montrachet. The nose feels a little forward with hazelnut and brioche scents, a touch of warm gravel. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of shaved ginger, then later rosewater and apricot. This does not have the verve and the nervosité I was expecting, and frankly, it is blown away by Jean-François Coche's 2005 Corton-Charlemagne. That said, it does improve and seems to muster more energy and tension, but if you stripped away the label, I don't think I would be jumping up and down with excitement without knowing how rare or expensive this is.

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