The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins has notes of sweaty saddle leather, roasted meats, dried Provencal herbs, and plenty of kirsch and black currant. Big and fleshy, with a hint of balsamic vinegar, and oodles of complexity and richness, it is no doubt controversial because it is so extreme in its aromas and flavors. But I love it. While I don’t think it’s one of Bonneau’s most noteworthy achievements, it is certainly a powerful 2000 that will evolve for another 15-20 years. The irrepressible Henri Bonneau is still in control, but seems to be slowly inching his way into a quasi-retirement with his new collaborator, Michel Roman, working hand-in-hand with him in the cellar assisted by Henri’s son Marcel. Tasting here is always a lesson in classic, traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape that appears to be produced the way wines were several hundred or so years ago. Few producers take the risk of aging their Chateauneuf du Papes as long as Bonneau does, especially in cellars that would make a modern-day oenologist seek psychiatric help.

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