The 1996 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, from the late Philippe Engel, has a very enticing, but it would appear, fully mature bouquet with wild mushroom and woodland/damp earth aromas infusing the loose-knit black fruit. There is perhaps just a touch of volatile acidity here, at least on this bottle. The palate is medium-bodied and it felt a little disjointed at first. However, we were afforded time and it coalesced nicely, though I remarked upon a slight "fish oil" note towards the finish that lent it an Oriental personality. The tannins feel softened after almost 20 years and there is just a touch of dryness. It's a fine Grands Echézeaux, though I have tasted better vintages before, including the 1991 tasted alongside. Drink now and over the next five years.

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