The 2005 Clos des Ruchottes is far too young to approach at the moment and like many others, it appears to be closing up. Here, the aromatics are closed, broody and stubborn, only reluctantly offering fleeting glimpses of black cherries, incense and minerals. The palate is very pure but distant at the moment, a prodigy without a tongue. But the signs are all here: a firm backbone, layer upon layer of fruit, but a wine that is more impressive than pleasurable at the moment. Got some in your cellar? Keep it there, you lucky thing. Drink 2020-2040+. Tasted September 2013.

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